Just as I was drawing up my autumn/winter sewing plans Deer and Doe released the Bruyere shirt pattern. I was really taken with the pictures, loved the longer length and fitted waist and so it was added to my already Deer and Doe heavy list. Fabric for the Bruyere was top of my shopping list when I went to the SewBrum meet up (along with the pattern which I managed to get at Gutherie and Ghani) I originally had a Chambray or Swiss Dot in mind but this blue floral cotton poplin was the first thing that jumped out at me at Barry’s fabrics. I bought two and a half metres after a quick google for the fabric requirements, it was only after that I realised I had misread in my excitement and the two and a half was for 60inch wide whereas my fabric was only 45inch (doh), undeterred I figured I could wing it and if it came to it could use a contrasting fabric for the inner workings.
I never used to wear shirts very often, I think the main problem with ready to wear was the length, particularly the sleeves which were at least four inches too long. Shirts often ended just a few inches above my knees giving the effect of junior school art classes where we brought in our Dad’s old shirts to wear as overalls. The beauty of sewing your own is having sleeves that fit, being able to wear them under a sweater and not having to roll them up all the time.
I knew I would have to shorten the sleeves and also take a fair bit off the ‘skirt’. Somewhere along the way I have got into the (very good) habit of measuring pattern pieces and working out how they compare to my own measurements. I usually have to shorten bodices by at least an inch but after checking the pattern pieces this didn’t seem necessary. I cut a size 42, grading out to a 44 across the bust and then back to a 42 for the waist and hips. I shortened the sleeves by four inches and took four inches off the length of the skirt.
I had to be a little creative with the cutting layout and just managed to fit it all on (part of this was due to me shortening the sleeves and skirt.) I very nearly made a major mistake with the bodice front, as I was cutting it in a single layer and forgot to flip the pattern piece, nearly ending up with two left fronts (I was watching Luther on Netflix at the time, lesson learned!)
The instructions are very succinct but easy to follow, everything is French Seamed to give a really neat finish. The pattern is classed as advanced but I think it is on a par with the Grainline Archer in terms of difficulty and would class it as an intermediate. Unlike the Archer the Bruyere doesn’t have a collar stand which makes things a little easier.
I really like the drafting of the Deer and Doe patterns I’ve tried so far; everything fits together perfectly. With a lot of other patterns I find things that don’t quite meet up; an extra few millimetres at the waistband or darts and pleats that don’t quite match and need a bit of tweaking. I had put this down to my sewing but maybe this could partially be due to drafting and grading problems. It was only after I had attached the bodice and skirt to the waistband that I realised I hadn’t checked if everything did line up, I was completely amazed to find that both front and back darts and pleats matched perfectly. The Bruyere went together so neatly and was a real pleasure to sew. The fit is also spot on, there’s just enough ease to be able to move around comfortably (and accommodate a substantial lunch) I found I was right not to shorten the bodice as the waistband falls just on my natural waist, although if you are taller and have a longer torso it might be as well to check the measurements to see if you need to lengthen it a bit. It is also lovely to have sleeves the right length!
I will definitely be making more Bruyere’s in the future. There is an option for a sleeveless version which would be great for summer. I really want to try lengthening it into a shirtdress though, I think this could work well in a fabric with a bit of drape. As you can probably tell I’m rather smitten with Deer and Doe, I’ve still got the Belladone to sew and have added another four onto my Christmas wishlist. There is the distinct possibility that I may have to add a sub heading to the blog title in which ‘Helen sews Deer and Doe’!
Just Sew Therapeutic 
I know how you feel about the magic of sleeves that are the right length (although I have the opposite problem of too short). This is a cute top. There are so many Deer & Doe patterns on my wishlist.
It’s just so nice to wear things that fit, definitely the best thing about sewing for yourself. I’ve made a Christmas wish pintrest board with all the deer and doe patterns I want on, printed it out and stuck it on the fridge, hoping someone will take the hint!
Perfect blouse, you have achieve a great fit and those flat pattern measurements certainly worked.
Thanks Sharon, I started measuring them as I was always worried about things being too small, it’s quite reassuring to know that they ‘should’ fit!
It looks lovely. You’ve reminded me how much I enjoyed sewing my Deer and Doe Sureau and think perhaps I need to re-visit it. Have a good day – at least it’s good west hrs for seeing!
I’ve got the Sureau on my Christmas list, glad you had a good experience with it! X
Very nice! Glad to hear that it’s a good pattern, I have been looking at it but haven’t decided yet!
Thanks Linda, it really was a pleasure to sew, one of those rare occasions when everything goes together with no fudging or unpicking! X
This looks great on you! The print you chose is perfect – I’m glad you ended up with enough fabric. I love the feminine look of this shirt pattern and how it nips in at the waist. I’ve really loved all the Deer & Doe patterns I’ve sew so far, and I have a number in the queue too!
Thanks Heather, the fitted top and waistband have really got me wondering about making it into a dress for spring, it would be easy to lengthen the skirt and add pockets, just got to figure out whether to make short sleeves!
Seeing yours on Instagram and now up on the blog has really convinced me to get this sorted! I too got some fabric at Sewbrum and the pattern from Guthrie & Ghani. I’m just struggling with the whole what to sew first as there are so many things I want to make.
I love the print you chose and can’t wait to see if you make any more 🙂
I know what you mean about what to sew first, it’s difficult when you have so many plans but not enough time! I would recommend the Bruyere though, it’s one of those projects that has lots of little steps that you can just keep chipping away at! X
I really like this on you. It’s got such a nice feminine shape, but is still quite casual! Glad you managed to make it work with the fabric and who’d have thought you’d need so much?
For patterns with lots of pieces I always trace around them with black felt tip pen and then cut them out, I’ve now got black pen across the inside of the right bodice! Luckily it doesn’t show through and has nearly faded in wash, I’ll definitely pay more attention to what I’m doing next time! X
This is as beautiful as I thought it was going to be when I saw the fabric, I love it! The shape really suits you, I am sure you will wear it loads!
Thanks Jenna, I’m really pleased with how it’s turned out, I can also wear it with leggings safe in the knowledge that my bum is well covered! X
This looks great! The fit looks perfect. I haven’t made any D&D patterns yet, although I do have the Datura pattern.
I’ve got the Datura on my Christmas list, really like the cut outs on the neckline!
Your shirt is so great! I love the fabric you chose and the fit is perfect. I hope you do try lengthening it into a dress– I bet it would make a really cute dress. If/when I have a waist again I want to make this shirt!
Thanks Teri, I’ll definitely need to add pockets but I think it could be the perfect shirt dress!