Two True Bias Sutton Blouses

There hasn’t been a lot of sewing going on recently. It’s the busiest time of year at work and we’re also decorating so the house is in disarray. The only thing passing through my sewing machine has been a pair of curtains. I’ve got so many things on my list but only managed to grab a couple of hours this week, if I don’t get some serious sewing ‘me time’ soon tempers are likely to fray!

I made these Sutton blouses a few weeks ago. I wanted to try the pattern after seeing loads of lovely versions during Me made may (May turned out to be quite expensive due to all the new patterns I ‘needed’ to have)

suttob blouse

‘The Sutton Blouse is a loose fitting V-neck top with kimono sleeves, a one piece yoke and a back inverted pleat.’

For the first one I used a metre and a half of black and grey floral viscose I bought at the Leeds meet up. I cut a size 14 based on my measurements. The pattern is drafted for a height of 5ft 6 inches. As I’m short waisted and short in general (5ft 2inch if I’m standing straight) I decided to shorten the pattern by two inches. It’s a neat little pattern, all French seams apart from side seams. The directions suggest overlocking the side seams but the fabric was light enough to double turn and stitch each edge before stitching the seam together.

One thing that didn’t even cross my mind (which doesn’t seem to be firing on all cylinders at the moment) was to pay attention to pattern placement, consequently the front seam has chopped a big flower in half (didn’t even notice until I put it on my dressform when it was finished) It also ended up being a little shorter than anticipated. I’ve worked out that the optimum length to cover the mum tum is 5 inches below my belly button, this was an inch or two shorter so the tum is just peaking out! The pattern however does run true to size. I really don’t know what to do about shortening things anymore, this is the second time recently that I’ve made my usual adjustment only to find out I didn’t need to (I shortened my first Morris Blazer which then ended up being a bit too ‘cropped’) I always worry about things being too long and swamping me, I think I just need to take a bit more time measuring the pattern pieces before I start chopping.





For my next Sutton I didn’t shorten the length. I used just under a metre and a half of Liberty silk satin which I bagged off ebay for a tenner. This was my first time working with silk satin, I’ve used silk twill and Crepe de Chine before which are a bit fiddly but I managed to get them to co-operated in the end.

This however fought me every step of the way. I laid it on a blanket (using Sew Busy lizzies timely suggestion on Instagram) pinned it down and weighted the pattern pieces with anything I had to hand. This seemed to stop it moving around and it wasn’t too difficult to cut if I took it slowly (I did actually pay attention to the pattern placement this time) However once I lifted the cut pieces they shifted around so much that I had no idea if they were on grain or even cut straight. I decided to forge ahead with the sewing, questioning the straightness of every seam I sewed (and trimming off bit’s here and there, convinced they was some wonkiness going on) I made it up exactly the same as the first; french seams and double fold side seams. The finished top isn’t too bad but I think the back yoke is a little out and I’m sure there’s something weird going on with the side seams. It’s one of those things that nobody will notice but I know it’s there!





highlighting my wonky side seam!

The first Sutton has been worn a lot since finishing but I’m really not sure about the silk one. I think it’s entirely down to all the hassle it gave me. There seems to be a direct correlation between how much I like a garment and how well the sewing process went. It’ll take a bit of time for me to forget all the pain and trouble it gave me (a bit like childbirth) but I it’s highly unlikely I’ll be sewing with silk satin again anytime soon!

Is it just me or has anybody else fallen out with a garment that was a troublesome sew?

19 thoughts on “Two True Bias Sutton Blouses

  1. Both your blouses look great on you! Saw your IG post first and my eyes fixed on the silk satin one. Its really stunning on you especially with that skirt. I hadnt noticed the wonky seam till you pointed it out. I’d still wear it 😃. Dont let me near you closet by the way…Give it time. My most troublesome make was more with fitting issues rather than fabric issues. One day I will try silk. Love what you said about May turning out to be expensive. Between the fabrics and patterns that I had to have, I spent a lot too😆.

    • I really struggle with fitting decisions, everytime I think I’ll be good and do a FBA it turns out I didn’t need to and when I don’t I should have done! I’ve had a good look in my wardrobe and realised it is the things that were a pain to sew that don’t get much wear, I don’t know if it’s irrational to hold a grudge against an item of clothing though! 😉

  2. I think they both look great! I totally know what you mean about not wearing the silk one though – sometimes I have to give garments a time out, so I’ll forget how much trouble they caused me.

    • I think I need to give it a few weeks until the memory starts to fade. I have just realised that it will go perfectly with my purple cardigan so it does have some redeeming features! 😊

  3. Debs says:

    Both blouses look great and as you know, only you will ever know about any wonky bits. The print and colours of the Liberty one surely make up for any niggles, it’s gorgeous!

    But I do know about what you mean about falling out with garments that give you grief. I made a Sewaholic Gabriola mostly because I’d never had a maxi skirt before and I knew it needed a very drapey fabric so I bought viscose which I’d never used before. It was a pain to keep still, sliding all over the table. I anchored it with weights and cut the yoke pieces using a rotary cutter which I usually find best for accurate cutting. I thought I’d done well until I started to try and sew the pieces together, they didn’t seem to be the right shapes at all :-(. So I block fused a piece of very light weight interfacing to the fabric and re-cut the yoke pieces. They kept their shape but I’m sure that’s not really the right way to deal with the problem, I don’t think exposed interfacing on the inside of the unlined garment will wear very well. However, so far that’s not been an issue as the skirt remains un-hemmed and unworn. I can’t face trying to get a level hem on a huge, long, droopy hem on a pain of a garment where I don’t even like the fabric colours and print very much.

    Yours is worth wearing though, the fabric’s lovely, it really suits you and the garment is at least finished!

    Debbie B

    • Oh Debs I really feel for you! It’s difficult when a couple of things go wrong but when a whole project fights you every step of the way it’s so frustrating. I bet if you hemmed and wore your Gabriola you’d get loads of complements, if you’re anything like me though I’d point out all the things that were wrong with it! 😊

    • Thanks Clarinda, I’m getting really frustrated by the lack of sewing time, I desperately need a couple more sundresses but I don’t know if I’ll get chance to make them before the sun disappears!

  4. I love this top – it looks like another one I want to try, I have also been stockpiling patterns and fabric much faster than I actually manage to sew, despite making lots of things in May and June! The silk one looks lovely so I hope you manage to forgive it soon – though I also have things I have never worn because I fell out of love with them during sewing – usually stupid fabric choices!


    • I’ve got so things on my summer sewing list but little chance of sewing them all before summer is out! I’m quite impressed with the Sutton pattern though, I’ve just cut out a Southport dress after seeing lots during me made May. I’ve used the blue floral viscose I bought in Leeds, last weeks hot weather made me realise I’m lacking sundresses in my wardrobe!

  5. Ugh to decorating! I need to get some done too, and the thought of it gives me the chills. Your tops are lovely, and I would never have noticed the flower on the first one if you hadn’t pointed it out. I’ve had my fair share of garments that I’ve fallen out with, but I usually come round to liking them again!

    • I’ve still got some cushion covers to do but have been able to put it off as ‘I don’t have any zips’ 😉 I have however managed to cut out a couple of dresses, will hopefully find time to sew them up before I have to give in and get on with the cushions!

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