grainline morris blazer

Grainline Morris Blazer Number Two

Most of my blog posts end with me saying I would like to make another, but then I get distracted by some shiny new pattern that comes along. This time I have actually followed through and made another Grainline Morris Blazer.

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This is my second Morris, the first I made a couple of months ago in a Ponte knit (here). I wanted to try a stretch cotton and see how it looked in something with a bit of body.  I bought the stretch cotton sateen from Ebay a few months ago but can’t seem to find out the seller details.  I made a few changes based on my last one as there’s a little difference in the sizing of the Morris.  I’ve made the Archer, Hemlock and Scout, for each one cutting a size 12, shortening the bodice by 2 inches and the sleeves by 3 inches. When I applied these adjustments on my first Morris it came up short and a bit too small. This time I went up to a size 14, left the bodice length as drafted and just took 1 inch off the sleeves.

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I’m still in a slow sewing mood so took the time to bind all the seams with 12mm spotty bias binding before construction. The only seam I bound on the crossgrain was the shoulder seams (they were very nearly on the bias) I should really have waited until the seam was sewn as I have a little bit of rippling on the shoulder seam but I’m not going to lose any sleep over it.

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It went together easily, I know a lot of people have had a problem with the front bagging. Again I used lightweight interfacing both on the front facing and the inside of the jacket.

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I’m a lot happier with this version, I think the stability of using a stretch cotton really helps the blazer keep its structure.  The only improvement I could make would be to do a full bust adjustment but I doubt I’ll ever have the time or inclination to do so. I’m glad I went for the Navy, although a bit boring it is far more practical and versatile than the flowery prints I originally planned on using. I’m hoping it will see me through Autumn and keep the chill off until I find time to make my winter coat, I have decided on the Cascade Duffle!

The Grainline Morris Blazer

 

I’ve been meaning to blog this for a while, I made it over a month ago but got caught up in Me Made May and other projects. It’s the new pattern from Grainline, a slouchy cropped jacket made for fabric with a slight stretch. One of my new year’s resolutions was not to jump on every shiny new pattern that gets released, I’ve been so good. I think I lasted three days before I succumbed, it was Hila’s at Saturday Night stitch which finally pushed me over the edge. I had problems downloading the pattern, purely down to my computer playing silly buggers. I got in touch with Jen and she got back to me and sorted it out in less than half an hour, so impressed with her customer service.

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I thought I’d start with a wearable muslin so bought a couple of metres of Ponte from my usual Ponte dealer. It was described as ‘Airforce Blue’ but I think it’s verging on ‘School uniform blue’! The PDF fitted together perfectly and was very quick to cut out. I made my usual Grainline adjustments; cutting a size 12, shortening the body by two inches and the sleeves by three inches.  I used a metre and a half of fabric.

The instructions were excellent, the only problem I had was figuring out which way up the back facing went in. It was one of those moments where the more I think about things the more complex they get. I spent a good fifteen minutes, inverting it, holding it up to the bottom of the jacket before I finally committed, luckily it was right (and glaringly obvious!) I used my overlocker to sew the side and back seams and finish off the armholes, the rest was sewn on my normal machine.  I cut two pieces of interfacing, one for the lapels and also one for the front part of the jacket.  A couple of people had had problems with the jacket bagging out at the bottom front.  Interfacing both parts has given both layers the same stability and seems to have helped.

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I really enjoyed making this, it was one of those projects where I could just happily poddle along. I think it makes a big difference when things are drafted well and everything fits together perfectly. It’s definitely an ideal do in a day project.

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I’m going to make a few changes to my next one, the fit is perfect around the shoulders but I think I need to grade up a size over the bust and waist. I’ll keep the original length, I was a little apprehensive about it being too long but I think taking those two inches out has left it a little too cropped. I’m stumbling a bit with the fabric for the next one though, ideally I’d like to try a stretch cotton sateen but the only fabric I have in my stash is sky blue with orange flowers! I have in my head the fabric I’m looking for, black or navy with delicate oriental flowers. I haven’t found it yet but I’ll keep searching.   It’s highly likely that I’ll get distracted though and end up with giant multi coloured cabbage roses!