This jacket was quite long in the making, I started it in May as I really needed a little light jacket. It was nearly finished, just needing the lining putting in, but the weather suddenly warmed up and I went on a summer dress sewing spree instead. I finally got around to finishing it a few weeks ago and as the weather has dipped into Autumn I’m rather glad I have it. It’s the Lourdes jacket from Named:
• Cropped A-line jacket
• Inverted pleat at the back
• Boat neck with rounded front corners
• ¾ sleeve with a dolphin hem
• Fake pockets, sewn in the waist darts at front
• Closure with five buttons
• The jacket is fully lined
• Choose a medium weight fabric, for example tweed, light boucle or other wool or cotton blend.
I chose the pattern mainly because of my past experience with Named (my Kielo, Talvikki and Tuuli) I really enjoyed sewing these, each one being completely stress free. I pondered on what fabric to use, initially I was going to use it as an excuse to fabric shop but decided to see what I already had in the stash. I’d bought 3 metres of this floral medium weight Linen last summer, a bargain at £2 a metre (From Economy Fabrics, just off junction 29 of the M1) I decided to take a gamble with it, the other half wasn’t convinced as he thought it looked like curtain fabric. I chose to ignore him and went ahead regardless.
The size range starts at a EU 32 which is a US 0 and UK 4 and goes up to a EU 46 Us 14 UK 18. Interestingly the size chart only contains the actual garment measurement (the bust range is 35 ¼ – 46 ¼ and the waist 36 – 46 ¾) I really wish all pattern companies did this, it makes it so much easier to pick a size rather than going on arbitrary body measurements and trying to figure out how much ease has been added.
I cut the largest size a UK 18. Helpfully the chart includes the finished bicep measurements, I’ve had problems in the past with sleeves being too tight, I have quite chunky biceps due to work and the right one is a full inch bigger than the left (it took me two years to realise this)
It came together very quickly; the only tricky part was the dolphin hem of the sleeve. I sewed as far as I could on my machine and hand stitched the rest. I really went to town with the pressing as I went along and used the tailors’ clapper my father in law made for me. This has made a significant difference to the finished jacket, particularly the sleeve hem. For the lining, I decided to go for some plain navy rayon, anything else would likely have clashed horribly. I made covered buttons with some navy cotton poplin from the scrap bag (justification there for saving all those little leftovers!)
I really enjoyed sewing this, the drafting is good and everything fits together perfectly. It was quick and easy to make, an ideal project for an advanced beginner wanting to dip their toe into outerwear. The fake pockets have got a bit lost in the print and I would have preferred them to be functional but I think it would be easy to convert them to a proper welt pocket. Although it’s a very simple jacket the dolphin sleeves and inverted pleat at the back really elevate it. I’m pleased I went with the navy buttons and lining as it is nicely understated and works perfectly with the print. The husband’s admitted that it doesn’t look like it’s made from a curtain after all!